Our last few academic days lead us from Naro Moru to Eldoret. On the way to Eldoret we stopped by Thompson Falls and the Rift Valley. The Rift Valley stretches from Egypt down to Mozambique and is considered the birth place of civilization. The pictures don’t really do it justice. We then stopped in Nakuru for lunch and to visit the Menengai Crater, which was created when the interior of a volcano collapsed in on itself.
|View from the edge of the crater|
After leaving the crater we got back on the road and headed to Eldoret. Eldoret is a town in Western Kenya that experienced a significant amount of post-election violence in 2007. As we learned from a few of our other site visits in Nairobi, the election itself was a trigger for the violence that many experienced, but it was not the direct cause. Kenya has a long, complicated history of colonization and land injustices that have sparked conflict between different communities. After rumors of fraud during the 2007 elections several different communities began to fight over ownership of land and political control.
Many innocent civilians sought shelter from the Red Cross or in churches. In Eldoret, at least 26 people, but probably more, sought refuge in the Kenya Assembly of God Church. On January 1, 2008 opposition forces descended on the church and set it on fire. The entire building burned to the ground with everyone locked inside of it. Most of the victims were women and children.
We visited the site of the church and it was one of the most sobering, chilling places I've ever been in my life. The cinder block wall and iron gate remain, but there is no longer a building. One single grave seems to be well maintained, under a tree, in the center of the plot of land where the church used to be. It is for a five year old boy. There are other wooden crosses strewn about the ground, most saying RIP and nothing else. A few have names on them, but as a local police officer told us, the vast majority of the bodies were burned beyond recognition and DNA testing was far to expensive.
|Gate of the Kenya Assembly of God Church in Eldoret|
|Grave of a five year old fire victim|
When we left the church we headed to another town called Kakamega to have lunch with a man who does peace building in the region. What he talked about in terms of the time it takes to do peace work and how communities really have to lead the charge was so in line with work I've been involved in in Philadelphia. I was also struck by how much he talked about trauma-informed care and using survivors as "healing companions," people who have experienced trauma, worked through it, and are paired with others to help them with their process. Not only did their methods of work resonate with me, but it gave me a broader understanding of how this kind of work can be done and the breadth of people with experience to do it.
After our lunch meeting Sakwa took us to the home where he was raised and where his parents still live. It was a quick visit to drop something off and to get a bathroom break, but it was nice to see his home town. Especially having had the opportunity to meet his parents earlier in our trip. After our quick stop it was on to Kisii, a stop over on our way to Maasai Mara for our end of trip safari. Our night in Kisii was interesting to say the least. I've never been to a place quite like it. It's not a huge town, but the city center is compact with a lot of night clubs and night life. We didn't know anyone there and so decided we would just find a hotel when we arrived. Well...that was an interesting decision. Our hotel ended up being right above a night club and you had to walk through the entrance of the club to get to the hotel stairs. It was loud, but the sheets were clean, the bed was comfortable, and after the long drive all I needed was a hot shower and a place to lay my head.
|View of the drive to Kisii|
|A night out at our hotel/club|